95 pts - Kilikanoon 2006 Clare Valley Attunga 1865 Shiraz
A limited selection from 900 dry-grown vines planted in the Leasingham subdistrict of Clare Valley, this approaches in a black, tannic wave of old-vine fruit, cresting to plums and prunes, cracked black pepper and minerals, before it explodes into darkness and slowly subsides. Each taste builds until the spark of mineral smoke becomes part of your breath. Remarkably dense while maintaining forward momentum and drive, this has the internal energy to sustain long aging.

93 pts - Kilikanoon 2007 Clare Valley Mort's Reserve Watervale Morts and Khileyre Vineyards Riesling
From two vineyands in Watervale, including 40-year-old vines planted by winemaker Kevin Mitchell's father, this is a precisely made, powerfully flavored and completely dry riesling. There's an earthy tension underlying the lime and green apple flavors, with concentrated intensity hinting at citrus marmalade, a character the wine will develop with age. Cellar it, or decant a bottle now for seafood chowder.

92 pts - Kilikanoon 2006 Barossa Valley Green's Vineyard Shiraz
A deliciously supple and lush shiraz, this wine's black- and blueberry flavors are deepened by the char of its oak. While soft and generous in the middle, this tightens in the finish, bound by sleek tannins and acidity that need a year or two to integrate more fully. Then serve it with roast lamb.

92 pts - Kilikanoon 2008 Clare Valley Watervale Mort's Block Riesling
Kevin Mitchell at Kilikanoon captures Clare in this traditional, limey riesling. Its citrus flavors extend with air, as they will with time in the bottle. While relatively light in body, it's compelling, the lime pith and lemongrass notes persisting along with lovely florals.

91 pts - Kilikanoon 2006 Barossa Valley R Shiraz
From an initial coffee syrup scent, this begins to develop distinction with a day of air. The soft texture and dark fruits turn into something gamey, potent and structured. It's finely made and warrants current drinking, though a more distinctive character will develop with age. This is a blend of low-yielding, old-vine shiraz (some more than 40 years old) from two estate sites, Crowhurst and Green's vineyards.

90 pts - Kilikanoon 2007 South Australia Killerman's Run Shiraz Grenache Red Blend
Red raspberry and strawberry flavors meet the tight, muscular structure of this wine head-on, completely filling the savory tannins. It finishes firm, with chalk and spice that will match duck sausages or any dark-meat game birds.

90 pts - Kilikanoon 2006 Barossa Valley Testament Shiraz
All baking spices when first opened, this layers clove and spruce over sweet flavors of baked blueberry and pie crust. That sweetness becomes more structured with air, as supple tannins take shape and lengthen the flavors. Intriguing depths make this a wine to age.